Rose Symotiuk

WHENEVER I have an afternoon free, I like to head out to Chegongmiao, a neighborhood in Futian. On the surface, it looks like any other commercial district in Shenzhen, but it’s probably one of Shenzhen’s most interesting areas.

One of the strangest things about Chegongmiao is its name. It means Che Gong Temple, but there’s no temple anywhere, according to Shenzhen-based temple expert James Baquet of the United States. Che Gong was a military commander during the Song Dynasty (960-1279) who was renowned for his loyalty, ability to suppress rebellions and cure outbreaks of plague.

The Chegongmiao subway station, which is situated on the green line beneath Shennan Boulevard, is quite busy, especially during rush hour. It contains a massive underground complex called Fashion Time (Fengshengting 豐盛町), which has over 500 shops and cafes.

Of the three exits at the station, the area around Exit A is my favorite because of its quiet, homey feeling, provided in part by Chegongmiao’s large Korean population, who operate a number of Korean shops and restaurants there. As you head out Exit A, take the underground passageway and you will find Korean fast-food places and several hole-in-the-wall restaurants. There’s also a small grocery store where I shop every week that has a great selection of interesting Korean drinks, chips, snacks and noodles. They sometimes have homemade glutinous rice squares with a sweet and tasty powder — a favorite of mine.

A number of shops further down the passageway cater to practical needs, especially stationery. A shop called Solar sells cool, unusual jewelry and has a quiet, little coffee shop inside. When you’re finally forced to ascend at the end, you’ll find a peaceful neighborhood. It has a somewhat secret Burger King, Starbucks and Zoo Cafe, which you’ll recognize by the giraffe out front. Another favorite of mine is a little toy store that has a great selection of stickers and interesting Korean craft supplies.

Exit B is notable for two things: the iconic China Merchants Building and the Langham Hotel. The former is perhaps the most famous and distinctive example of Shenzhen architecture and a fixture of our skyline. Visitors are not allowed inside, but it’s still a good photo opportunity. The Langham Hotel, which has nice, British-style afternoon tea, offers the option of sitting outdoors in a gazebo beside the pool.

Exit C is the place to be on a rainy day. It empties into the main area of Fashion Time. The hustle and bustle of people can be overwhelming on your first visit, but it’s certainly worth checking out. There are necessities such as Mannings, but also an outpost of Choux Creme, the creme puff chain, which some would argue is also a necessity. Other tasty venues include a Vietnamese restaurant (3 Meals), a conveyer belt sushi restaurant (Sushi Oh!) and a rotating hot pot place (Fashion Hot Pot). Recently, a new natural and organic cupcake shop called CC Cupcakes opened.

Just outside Exit C is one of Shenzhen’s best street food locations. Cooks from around the country make ethnic dishes, fresh bread, savory crepes, egg cakes, fresh grilled squid and more. The selection is endless and it’s extremely convenient.

If you take a right as you leave Exit C, you’ll find some great new cafes and restaurants. The standout is Le Select. Their foreign chef makes great dishes, from spaghetti Bolognese to meatballs with mustard sauce. The prices are very reasonable as well. Every Tuesday at 7:30 p.m., Le Select plays host to Kan Kan movie club, organized by Anastasia Lebedeva and Charlotte Linton, who bring together a cool group of young expats and locals for a film screening and discussion. It was quite a pleasant surprise to find such an interesting group.

Possibly one of the most famous destinations in Chegongmiao is Brown Sugar Jar. Finding it isn’t easy, but it’s well worth the trip. It’s decorated like a college bar, with Bob Marley posters and mismatched couches for slouching over your drink. It’s always dimly lit inside, even in the afternoon. It doesn’t get crowded until after 8 p.m., when Brown Sugar Jar becomes one of Shenzhen’s best small live music venues that hosts touring bands and local musicians.

Another unusual location near Exit C is Meow Bar. Yes, it’s a cat bar. Their advertisement reads: “We currently have four cats and they are all waiting for you to come pet them while you sit down and take a break from the busy city life!” If you’re a cat lover, Meow Bar is a must.

Whether you’re looking for a nice lunch and a spot of shopping, or want to eat your way across the world before catching an indie film or live music, Chegongmiao promises to deliver.

Rose Symotiuk from the United States teaches at Shenzhen Polytechnic. She has lived in Shenzhen for more than five years and writes for a number of publications. She loves Shenzhen and enjoys helping people new to the city discover its secrets.